Ingredients

6 to 7 pounds turkey parts, such as necks, wings, and legs 

1 teaspoon coarse salt 

1/2 cup Madeira or sherry 

1 stalk celery, cut into 3-inch pieces 

2 carrots, cut into 3-inch pieces 

1 onion (unpeeled), quartered 

A few sprigs each fresh flat-leaf parsley, thyme, and rosemary 

A few dried porcini mishrooms 

A few whole black peppercorns 

1 dried bay leaf 

Preparation

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place turkey parts in a large, heavy roasting pan (do not crowd); season with salt. Roast, stirring occasionally (pour off accumulated fat after about an hour), until very well browned, about 2 hours total.

Transfer turkey parts to an 8- to 10-quart stockpot. Pour off fat from roasting pan; discard. Place pan over medium-high heat. Add wine; bring to a boil. Deglaze pan, scraping up browned bits from the bottom with a wooden spoon.

Transfer deglazing liquid to pot, add remaining ingredients. Add enough water to cover ingredients by 2 inches (about 4 quarts). Simmer 3 hours over low heat. Let cool slightly, then skim fat from the surface. Pour stock through a large sieve set over a heatproof bowl; discard solids. Cooled stock can be refrigerated up to 2 days or frozen several months in airtight containers.