Ingredients

Coarse salt

1 pound (about 25) large shrimp, heads (optional) and shells on

2 small mangoes, peeled and chopped

1/2 lemon, peeled and rind finely chopped (2 teaspoons)

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon rice vinegar (not seasoned)

1/2 teaspoon salt

Pinch freshly ground white pepper

5 basil leaves, thinly sliced

3/4 cup mayonnaise

3 tablespoons ketchup

1 tablespoon spicy stone-ground mustard, preferably Creole

3 tablespoons finely chopped celery

1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

1/2 tablespoon finely chopped scallion

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup chili sauce, such as Heinz

1/2 cup prepared horseradish

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

Make the shrimp: Prepare an ice-water bath. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Boil shrimp until opaque, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain, and transfer to ice-water bath to cool. Drain, and refrigerate.

Make the mango-basil sauce: Pulse mangoes, lemon rind and juice, vinegar, salt, and white pepper in a food processor until smooth. Fold in basil. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 day.)

Make the tomato-horseradish sauce: Stir together chili sauce, horseradish, and lemon juice. Season with black pepper. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.)

Make the remoulade: Whisk together mayonnaise, ketchup, and mustard. Stir in celery, parsley, and scallion. Season with black pepper. Serve immediately (or refrigerate for up to 1 day).

Place shell-on shrimp in a large bowl, or peel shrimp and arrange in small serving dishes. Serve with the 3 sauces on the side.